Suzuki DR 350 page
My ' 96 DR 350SE
notify me of any errors you find in this page! Thanks.
General Info on the Suzuki
The DR is a allround-suited dualsport bike of the lower weight class. The durable
engine revs well and has a widespread usable range. The easily shiftable six-gear
transmission is balanced. Offroad, the bike can be controlled good even by beginners.
The even relatively small performance enabled for hobby driver a brisk progress
without full power stress like KTM. Only for advanced drivers it is worth it to
think about tuning of the suspension or engine. As a rule of thumb
you should spend equal amounts on engine and suspension to get a balanced bike.
Technical data DR350SE
(SK42B) ' 96
one cylinder fourstroke, |
overhead cam shaft, 4 valves
||30 HP at 7600
||27 Nm at 6200
|Dry sump lubrication
oil (with filter)
filter (1700 ml without filter) SAE 10W40 API SE/SF
||SAE 7.5 -
street legal version 135kg(286lbs)
(SE) - 14/43 (S)
| fuel capacity
||9 ltr /1,8
res (2,4gal / 0.5gal res)
Ups and downs
small range 150-200 km (93-124 mls)
high revving, stable engine
Kickstartmodel starts bad after longer pause
easy and handy
narrow, hard seat
exhaust and frame rust, poor quality
brakes not state of the art for street use
suspension too soft for serious offroad use
Modifications of my ' 96
"Stahlflex" brake hose in front
as required (road 15/41, Off-Road 13/43)
Racimex oil thermometer
Öhlins Shock with 5.6kg WP spring,
Racetech Cartridge emulators and springs
Mikuni TM36 flat
turn signals on the back
GPS Holder with
8V voltage supply
Mounted to the frame behind the rear left footpeg.
The oil hose runs under the acerbis frameguard down to the front sprocket
DR is a good Allround Enduro. It is applicable both in the everyday life on
the road and in the moderately severe Offroad areas. The DR is however no "
hard Enduro ". It can be rigged at any expenditure, but if somebody wants
professional MotoCROSS performance, he should consider to buy a KTM LC400 SC
, Honda XR400 or Yamaha WF 400. For the average hobby driver the stock status
is sufficient. With rising capability you should update the rear suspension.
Also consider that any type of enginetuning reduces the reliability and life
span. Who wants to use the DR as dual sport Bike, is situated exactly right.
So here are the most popular optimization possibilities:
Braketube, best plastic-coated. For road operation absolutely recommendable.
links: 8mm longer links for the back suspension. DR typical hopping
of the rear wheel with associated lateral hopping out (sideways-kick) is
prevented. (80 US dollar).
- Harder spring
for original shock against bottoming. (approx. $80 Eibach/White Power)
fork springs (approx. $85)
from Oehlins or White Power. (approx. $ 600)
- Renthal or
Pro Taper aluminum handle bar ($40-100)
Cartridge Emulators ($139) and new springs for plusher operation.
- Quite wild
people need a better fork (RM Crosser fits) and a rigid rocker e.g. Thumper
stockengine is revving well and has an broad performance development, is however
not very strong (30HP). Nevertheless I got anywhere with the stockengine. In
the following the most popular engine-tuning modifications.
This modification for the CV-carb vent will help the bogging/cutting out/flooding
symptoms when riding on whoops/doing small jumps.
The carb is vented on the right side, where the forward hose runs to the
vacuum petcock and the backward hose runs up into the frame. Pull the backward
hose off, cut a 1" piece of line the same size (use clear so you can
see when gas is overflowing), attach one end back on the carb, and the other
end put a T-connector. Run the same lengt of line back up into the frame
tube that was originally there, run another line off the other end of the
T connector straight down and ziptie it somewhere low on the frame where
the dripping gas won't pose a problem. ($5)
the stock carb you can order smaller JX Needle and spring from Thumper Racing.
This is reported to have great results with an opened airbox and the stock
the snorkel out and/or cut the top of the Airbox (s.Pic),
Mainjet two or three Numbers bigger -> 137.5, Pilot one bigger ->40.
If you don't want to open it completely, you could bore some 1" holes
into the airbox instead and use 1" filter-vents
- Thumper Racing
sells a t-handle for the pilot-screw adjustment. Just if you don't want
to tear the carb out every time you play with the idle-mix.
Orig. Suzuki with all hoses is about 400$. there is a cheaper one availiable
from Jagg, but you will have to fit it yourself.
camshaft (decreasing life-span)
stainless steel Headpipe ($ 100)
Megamax/Yoshimura/... aftermarket exhaust (200-300$), relatively small powerincrease
- Airbox from
Jesse Kientz , www.kientech.com
($280) should bring about 7 hp and good sound because of better flow. Jesse
is very helpful with tips for jetting and engine things. For some more pictures
- bigger piston/bore:
- a 385
cc kit will give siginficant boost, but any piston with added compression
will do just the same. I cannot recommend this solution, since the sleeve
is weakend from 4mm to 2mm. You can see the results of 2000 miles in
the picture on the right.
- The Cycle
Gear 400 cc kit seems ok, but takes as much trouble (new sleeve) as
the 441 &435 cc kits.
Racings 435 kit works very good. (230 US$)
Bros sells a 441 kit.
- all bigger
pistons put the the e-start under a little more stress. so keep your
- Mikuni TM
36 Flatslidecarb ($ 250) or TM33 pumper carb of US dirt-odel.
My bike is not
very strong. yet :-) The chart is from a DYNOJET 150. The graph shows the rear-wheel
Power. Clutch-Power is about 30hp.
Other Tips and Tricks:
doubles the lifetime of your chain
- If you plan
on not using the bike for a long period of time (over a month) drive the
bike until the carb is empty or drain it. It will start a lot better afterwards.
Tank 15.5l for bigger range
- Acerbis brushguards
with Spoilers keep you from being injured in the woods. The lifetime of
clutch and brakelevers is increased and spoilers protect from cold winds.
sells frame-Protectors to prevent losing of your finish over the pegs
of the frame, aluminiumoxide on the Exhaust keeps these parts from corrosion
SP or N Models the generator can be changed with the stronger generator
of an S or SE model
- use rim/sprocket
15/41 for street, or 13/45 for offroad use
up your bike carefully. Keep the revs between 3500 and 5500 rpm until
you get at least 50degrees Celsius oil-temperature
synthetic oil for offroad or winter use (eventually you need to get stronger
- get an enduro-stand.
maintanance will be a lot easier
- get the clymer
suzuki dr350 service manual (ISBN 0-89287-602-6)
Tips for offroad use
flashers and mirrors are very expensive -> dismount them and use aftermarket
the toolbox, or you will lose the rubber-cover
the rear fender and the metal-holder, wich tends to break (weight about
5 kg with rear foot-pegs)
- use rim-locks
if you plan to use lower tirepressures, or you will tear your tire-valves
of (tires need to be re-matched)
- offroad tirepressure:
on sand 0.7/0.8 bar, in rocky conditions 1 bar (only with rimlocks)
don't screw the tire-valve nut against the rim. put it against the cover.
so you can see, if the tire is moving before the valve is torn out
- use reinforced
tubes, rimlocks and knob-tires with good profile
- bore your
levers in the outer third. so they wont break in the inner side leaving
you "dead in the woods"
- You can tie
the footbrake lever to the front of the engine-protector with an old clutch-
or gas-cable to prevent bending it backwards when touching branches or rocks.
Just remember to keep the thing loose enough, or your back-brake won't work
tips, typical weaknesses
- the clutch-hub
runs on a spacer with two thrust washers on each side, wich tend to wear.
If this happens, the bike will creep forward in first gear and you will
have trouble with finding idle-position. Just replace the washers and be
- if the screw
of the gear-shaft is loose, the bike will shift up or down by itself occasionaly.
you will have to fix the screw with loctite. If you don't, you will loose
your gearbox sooner or later...
the clutchcover-sealing beneath the peg/kickstart area
tend to wear out or get concave (must be thicker than 3mm)
- the holder
of the rear fender tends to break
broken at the bottom, where it is screwed to the mounting-plate
- if the frame
finish is worn over the pegs, the bike has been ridden offroad
- check for
play of the rear-suspension rocker-arm
fork sealings ok?
like this mean usually damage by crash
- the chain
should not leave the sprocket too much. Max. about 5mm.
If she does not
start good, you should have driven the carb dry (close fuelline, drive until
- Choke full
- kick 5 times
with full choke (don't use deko)
to highest point without deko, then kick with full power
- if nothing
happens after five minutes, push the bike up a hill, run down with active
deko in third gear, release deko, if she has enough rpm.
- do not use
the deko at all. just kick fast from the highest point .
stalled or gone out:
- keep the
- kick 10 times
to get air inside
- hold coffee
in left hand and push magic button with your right, until she runs :-)
If she will
not start at all when warm, and your ignition and fuel is ok, you should check
your pilot screw adjustment and jetting.
if she is to too lean (commonly after carb/airbox mods), screw the pilotscrew
out (not more than 2-3 turns, if that is not enough, you need a bigger pilot-jet).
if too rich (spark plug wet, exhaust smells of fuel) pilotscrow in.
rear fender :)
- 2. Gear,
about 4000 rpm, weight to front, when the fork comes back out, full throttle!
- keep your
foot on the rear brake!
- 3. 4. 5.
6. Gear, as long as your balance goes. :-))
with older bikes
the only legal tires are 80/100-21 and 110/90-18. (You can use 90/90-21 und
- Sand: Michelin
Desert (for 140 rear you must cut it)
- Mud: Michelin
- Pirelli MT81
- Pirelli MT17
Barum Stone King
- Chen Shin
trail on the back are reported to be good and durable
Street and Offroad:
T63 (good durability, good dual-sport tire, not so good in mud)
- Pirelli MT
21 (like T63, front some more profile)
Sirac rear (durable)
- Conti TKC
80 (cheap and good)
- Dunlop K560
(stock in germany, rubbish offroad)
- mount the
kickstarterscrew with Loctite
- use puller
- bolt Numberplate
on Aluminium-plate (vibrations)
can be pulled with nut M35x1.5
the clutch-nut gets loose occasionally
block the clutch
for disassembling with old clothes
an old clutchplate together with an opposite steelplate to block the clutch
of the RM250 are told to fit and last longer
To check if the
mounted clutch runs free on the gear-shaft, you can dismount the primary sprocket
The bike creeps forward with 1st gear engaged. It's difficult to shift gears
or get into neutral at the traffic-light:
- 1st make shure your clutch cable is
adjusted correctly (2-3mm play)
- the thrust-washers
(Pos 2) tend to wear out at the sleeve which holds the basket on the gear-shaft.
If this happens, the basket and hub can get into contact.
- replace the
thrust washers or turn them to the other side and put an additional thin washer
0.2-0.5mm in to clear the two baskets. (I got some of the thin washers in
The washers are hardened to 480HV.
- My bike had
this disease right out of the factory. The dealer (Motothek) was not able
to find the Problem within the warranty of 12 month :-((
- check clutch-basket
for grooves which can hold the plates in axial position and file away the
grooves until you get a plain surface.
Differences of '96 DR
350SE and '91 DR350S:
- no rubbers
in the rear chain, therefore smaller Chain-sprockets
15/43 (DR350S 14/45)
starts better :-)), considerable weight :-(
- bigger exhaust,
some less power :-(
- the carb
is equipped with a little switch at the throttle. the ignition is set to
late, if you accellerate full at about 50km/h (30mph). This is disgusting,
if you just wanted to overtake some lazy cars. Just unplug the switch or
bend the little clamp away!
DR 350 Links: